Exploring Desert Landscape and Palm Oasis on the Fern Canyon & Vandeventer Trail Loop

Hiking in Indian Canyons is always enjoyable and the Fern Canyon Trail to Vandeventer Trail Loop combination did not disappoint.

Hike Distance: 6.75 miles

Elevation Gain: 951 feet

Information about Aqua Caliente Tribe and Reservation

Since time immemorial, the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians has called the Palm Springs area home. Archaeological research shows the ancestors of the Tribe have occupied Tahquitz Canyon for at least 5,000 years, mirroring the migration stories of the Agua Caliente people. Additional archeological research shows ancestors of the Tribe have occupied the site of the Agua Caliente Hot Mineral Springs for more than 8,000 years.

Initially, their territory covered approximately 2,400 square miles in Southern California. In ancient times, they established complex communities in the Palm, Murray, Andreas, Tahquitz, and Chino canyons, all benefiting from plentiful water sources. They gathered indigenous plants and seeds for sustenance, medicinal purposes, and crafting baskets, as well as cultivated crops such as melons, squash, beans, and corn.

As outsiders discovered the Coachella Valley's potential, the tribe found their ancestorial homelands disrupted. To encourage the railroad, the U.S. government subdivided the Palm Springs area into one-mile-square sections, granting the Indians every other section while the Southern Pacific Railroad emerged as the primary beneficiary of this land agreement. In 1876 and 1877, the U.S. Federal Government deeded in trust to the Agua Caliente people only 31,500 acres for their homeland. Approximately 6,700 acres of this total are situated within the city limits of Palm Springs. The remaining parcels are scattered across the desert and mountains in a checkerboard pattern, as illustrated in the map below.

While visitors see the Indian Canyons only as a hiking destination, for the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, it’s their ancestral home. From mountain-fed streams, lush palm groves, and seasonal waterfalls, the Indian Canyons has long been an oasis of natural beauty and resources, providing the Tribe with an abundance of raw materials to not only survive but to thrive.

Hiking the Fern Canyon Segment

Today's Fern Canyon-Vandeventer Trail hike runs through Indian Canyon of the Aqua Caliente Reservation. It's a great opportunity to experience the beauty of these lands and appreciate why they are so important to the Cahuilla. Below is an aerial map indicating the trail highlighted in green.

We completed the hike in February and  it is clear from this photo that these areas situated at the foot of the San Jacinto Mountains receive a higher amount of rainfall compared to other communities in the valley. The hills and the wash were covered with healthy plants and shrubs. It was clear that today would be a day to enjoy desert flora as well as desert vistas.

Even the plants that didn't appear green were thriving. The California barrel cacti looked plump after the recent rains. Cacti possess a dense, soft-walled, and juicy stem that retains water when it rains. Their waxy, thick coating prevents water from escaping, helping them to endure dry spells.

After half a mile, we left the wash and began a slow climb up the green covered hillside.

Pockets of cacti, collectively known as 'chollas' bordered the trail. There are more than 20 specific species of cholla cacti. Or rather, there’s a couple dozen species in the Cylindropuntia genus – which are each often called cholla of one sort or another. On the outside most cholla look similar. They are highly segmented cacti with joints separating their cylindrical stems. These stems are heavily armed with 1-inch spines that are covered in a papery sheath. This sheath gives some species a silvery or gold appearance. It makes these teddy bear cholla appear to glow in the morning or evening when the sun is low.

Teddy bear chollas stand erect with a single trunk and horizontal branches. The lower branches tend to fall off and the trunk darkens with age as the spines turn dark chocolate brown to black.

Teddy bear cholla are known as 'jumping cholla' due to a combination of factors. First the spines are also quite fiercely reverse-barbed which makes them grab firmly to the skin or fur of unwitting humans or animals. Secondly, the stem segments detach easily. So the grab and detach characteristics leave people with the impression that the cactus jumped to grab hold of them. This is how the plant spreads and propagates. Vegetative reproduction is via the rooting of detached segments. Notice the small 'cactus balls' at the base of the plant; these detached segments are waiting to be carried to a new location. It's believed that coyotes, with their medium-length fur, are the main dispersers of this cactus.

Another less common species observed on the trail were Gander cholla. In contrast to the Teddy Bear cholla, their segments are securely attached and do not detach onto the ground, posing a risk for people or animals to step on. Pollinators are essential for the reproduction of this species.

Gander Cholla rare in the United States, found only in far southwestern California.

When examined closely, chollas are made up of tubercles shaped like diamonds or upside-down raindrops. As the plant ages, and dies the green fleshy parts deteriorate and fall away. Upon death, the cholla leaves behind wooden “skeletons” of porous hollow tubes that can persist in place for years after the cactus has died.

These cacti face strong desert winds that put tension on the plants from different directions. Studies have revealed that the porous structure strikes a balance between the plant being able to support its weight, and resisting the twisting forces of the desert winds. Additionally, this design feature contributes to water conservation. The porous structure reduce the cacti's weight, making them stronger and requiring less water-dependent pulp or flesh for support.

Nothing like a little reminder that you are on your own out here in these parts of the desert mountains.

Beavertail cacti were also visible along the trail. This low, spreading cactus can grow up to 12-26 inches high and up to 6 feet wide. The gray-green, jointed stems are wide and flat - resembling the tail of a beaver. Oval in shape, the stems are 1 to 6 inches wide and 2 to 13 inches long. The stems grow in clumps. Unlike most cactus, the beavertail cactus doesn't have spines but they do have small barbed bristles called glochids, which can easily enter the skin.

Most hikers will tell you they prefer getting jabbed by a cholla cactus spine than brush against a beavertail cactus. While spines may draw blood, they remain attached to the cactus whereas glochids from a beavertail cactus easily detach from the pad and embed in your skin. You might not notice them when they first attach, but later they'll cause irritation and are very difficult to remove.

Although we didn't notice it at the time, about 1 mile into the hike we had our first view of the Fern Canyon Palm Oasis (slightly below and right of center). Instead our attention was drawn to the outstanding view of the San Jacinto Mountains.

After covering half a mile, we returned to the wash and entered the Fern Canyon Palm Oasis. Although there were a few dead palms at the entrance, the appearance of these native California fan palms indicated that the oasis was providing sufficient water to sustain the grove and vegetation along its boundaries. The presence of desert palms serves as a clear indication of the availability of water. While many desert plants have adapted to survive with minimal water, palm trees defy water conservation practices. With roots that extend only 8-12 feet, they can only thrive in locations where water is plentiful and close to the surface.

There are 2,500 species of palms worldwide, with 11 being native to North America. The California fan palm is the largest among them and is the sole palm indigenous to western North America. It can reach heights of up to 59 feet and spans 10-20 feet in width, with a lifespan of 80-250 years. What sets these palms apart from others in California is that when the palm fronds die they remain attached and form a wide skirt around the trunk. This skirt serves as a refuge for various small mammals, birds, and desert reptiles, including rattlesnakes.

On one side of the oasis was a seeping wall adorned with maidenhair ferns cascading down from it. The brilliant green during the winter months stands in sharp contract to the brown rock face. Despite their delicate appearance, these fern manage to send fibrous roots into decomposing granite to access the water trickling through the stone. During dry spells, the ferns will die back, but will quickly emerge after rainfall. We timed our hike perfectly to capture the maidenhair ferns at their healthiest state. One fun fact about these ferns - their fronds have the ability to repel water without becoming wet.

The Cahuilla located permanent villages at large palm groves, where the evaporation of oasis water created a moist, shady, cool microclimate that drew game and supported a variety of beneficial plants like cottonwood, mesquite, and willow.

They used the dried palm fronds to construct huts, sandals, and cooking utensils. They harvested the fruit of the palms for food and soaked the fruit to produce a sweet beverage. All of these materials were regularly traded with nearby Indian tribes. By transporting the fruit and seeds to other settlements in the mountains and valleys, the Cahuilla were integral to the spread of the desert fan palm.

The lush appearance of the oasis slowly faded after these palms and the green landscape gave way to shades of brown. The typical desertscape returned.

The one exception to the 'brown environment' was a stand of desert apricot shrubs lining the trail for a considerable distance. Desert apricot is native to Southern California and is found predominately in canyons and dry washes below 4,000 feet. In areas where they grow, it is common to come across dense clusters of desert apricot trees, such as those in Fern Canyon. What a welcome sight on the trail. We were met with the vibrant colors and honey-like smell of the blossoms, and the sounds of swarms of bees.

During January and February, hikers fortunate enough to be on these trails can witness the desert apricot bush's white flowers, which closely resemble apple blossoms. The hard-working pollinators swarming the bushes guaranteed a good summer apricot harvest.

For the Cahuilla Indians desert apricots were a delicacy and a highly prized food source. The flesh was boiled down and mixed with honey to create a syrup or jam.

Hiking the Vandeventer Trail Segment

After about 2.5 miles the Fern Canyon trail merged with the Wildhorse Trail. We remained on this trail for another half mile until we reached the junction with the Vandeventer Trail, which served as our way back to the trailhead.

Beyond the oasis, the trail traversed a plateau and headed west. The views shifted from the Cahuilla foothills....

to the central mountain line of the San Jacinto Mountains.

The majority of the vegetation found on the plateau consisted of 'creosote bush scrub' desert ecosystem. The prevalent plant species included creosote bush, white bursage, brittlebush, cheese-bush, cholla, and beavertail cactus.

With warmer afternoon temperatures, we began to see more reptiles including the ever present common side-blotched lizards basking on a rock. These lizards have a short lifespan, lasting only about a year. Despite their small size (1.5 - 2.5 inches), the males are highly territorial and will perform pushups on a rock to assert and defend their territory. Small but with a attitude!

This side-blotched was more cautious and unwilling to remain in the open as we approached.

The wispy cloud formations over the mountains added to these magnificent clear views.

I couldn't resist taking this photo of Dave standing beside a California barrel cactus that was over 6 feet tall. Notice the cholla skeletons scattered around the base of the barrel cactus.

Around mile 4.5, we began our descent into Palm Canyon Oasis and had our first glimpse of the palm oasis.

Hiking the Palm Canyon Trail Segment

A series of switchbacks led directly into Palm Canyon Oasis. Groundwater percolating through the fault-fractured granite is the source of life for the stands of fan palms located in the canyon and on the sidewalls.

Palm Canyon holds the world’s largest reserve of Washingtonia filifera, otherwise known as the California fan palm. This particular area in the canyon spans more than a mile and is home to a significant number of these palms.

California fan palms in the canyon rely on a stream and shallow ground water to ensure a consistent and continuous water supply. They are by no means a drought tolerant plant.

Wrapping Up the Day in Palm Springs

As always, our hikes in Palm Springs ends with a mojito and plate of nachos.