Exploring the Big Sur Coastline

Is the Big Sur Coastline the Greatest Meeting of Land and Water?

After spending the winter in Palm Desert and hiking in the hot and dry Sonoran Desert, what better way to welcome spring than by exploring the breathtaking Big Sur coastline. There are a number of ‘epic’ California road trips but with Big Sur’s unparalleled beauty, stunning landscapes, coastal cliffs, postcard-perfect vistas, and amazing geology the choice was easy.

Although the Big Sur coastline technically starts in San Simeone, we began our adventure 25 miles further south in Morro Bay (bottom right on map). The drive from our home in Palm Desert to Monterey is 7-8 hours and we were concerned that if we drove nonstop then we’d be more interested in finishing the day than enjoying the incredible coastline. By adding an overnight in Moro Bay, we were able to start this iconic stretch of California coastline fresh and not antsy from being in the car all day. In addition we also got the opportunity to explore Morro Bay, another gem along the coast.

Yes, A Stop in Morro Bay is Worth It

Aside from breaking the drive into more manageable segments Moro Bay offers a blend of natural beauty, outdoor activities, restaurants, and a laid-back coastal vibe. This makes it a worthwhile stop if you’re exploring the Southern and Central California coastline. But this isn’t an itinerary packed visit, it was a quick in and out.

We arrived late afternoon and after walking around the village, we grabbed a seafood dinner at a restaurant on the harbor with a great view of Morro Rock.

With a full stomach, we made our way to Morro Strand State Beach for an after dinner walk. It was a cool spring evening so the beach wasn’t crowded.

A golden hour photo.

Great Blue Herons are the most active during the hours on either side of low tide. They commonly forage alone, standing tall, and stationary waiting to strike. Great Blues are one of the most common herons in North America.

What would a Southern California beach photo be without a surfer.

Starting off out trip with a stunning sunset. It doesn’t get any better than this!

Although the beach is beautiful, the most notable feature is the 576-foot-tall Morro Rock, also known around the world as the Gibraltar of the Pacific. This massive rock originated from volcanic activity approximately 23 million years ago.

The colossal structure you see is the remnant of a volcanic plug which formed when magma hardened inside the vent of a previously active volcano as illustrated in this diagram. Plugs tend to be more resistant to erosion than the rock which comprised the outer surface of the volcano. Over millions of years, uplift caused by the movement of tectonic plates and erosion have washed the softer surrounding rock away, exposing the harder volcanic plug that we see today.

Morro Rock looks quite different when viewed from the bay compared to the beach side.

This bird's-eye view provides a sense of scale and position of the rock.

Today Morro Rock in a natural preserve and it’s illegal to climb it. One reason is to protect the peregrine falcons who are once again nest on the rock after nearly going extinct in the 1960s and 70s. Only local Native Indian tribes, who consider the rock a sacred site, are permitted to climb Morro Rock for their annual ceremonies.

Elephant Seals are Massive

Our first stop on the road trip was the Piedras Blancas Rookery in San Simeon. To begin with, a rookery is a term used to describe the breeding grounds for seabirds, turtles, and marine mammals including northern elephant seals. Despite the beach being crowded, the future of elephant seals was not always certain.

In the late 1800s, American whalers hunted northern elephant seals almost to extinction for their thick blubber, which was used to make lamp oil. By the 1880s, not a single northern elephant seal was seen anywhere in the world, according to the National Park Service. Then a small colony of elephant seals was found on Guadalupe Island off the coast of Baja California in Mexico. After laws were enacted in Mexico and the United States banning hunting of elephant seals, that colony estimated to have dwindled to fewer than 100 animals was able to keep reproducing, and the population rebounded.

As the population of elephant seals rose, they began to recolonize some of their former territories, eventually moving north to the waters off the coast of California. In 1990,just under two dozen elephant seals were seen on the beach. The next spring, more than 400 seals were counted. After that, the population continued to grow every year. Now about 17,000 elephant seals call this beach their home. Piedras Blancas is now one of the biggest seal rookeries in California, hosting about 10% of the entire world population of Northern Elephant Seals.

Elephant seals live for just two months of the year on land. In the winter they return to these beaches to mate and give birth then in late spring for molting when they shed their fur and grow new skin and a coat. Elephant seals undergo a “catastrophic molt” where they shed the outer layer of their skin and fur. The seals may look like they have a skin disease but this is normal; the old skin falls off in patches. This process is crucial for maintaining their insulation and health.

During our visit the beach was mainly populated with adult females, juvenile elephant seals and some pups. These creatures looked immense. Juvenile males can range in size from 6-9 feet in length and weigh up to 2,000 pounds while females are typically 9-12 feet in length and 900-1,800 pounds. It's hard to image what this beach looks like when adult males 14-16 feet in length and weighing up to 5,000 pounds return to breed.

This pup with its silvery brown coat is probably less than one year old. At birth newborn elephant seals have a black coat which they molt after one month. Once they molt a sleek silver gray coat is revealed but within a year the coat turns a silvery brown.

Once the pups gets sea legs they will spend most of their life underwater diving to depths of about 1,000 to 2,500 feet for 20-30 minute intervals with only short breaks at the surface in search of food. They are rarely seen out at sea so getting a chance to observe these magnificent northern elephant seals up close was a unique experience.

Big Sur Coastal Highway: Pit Stops and Photo Ops

Big Sur Coast Highway (Highway 1) refers to that 90-mile stretch of rugged and awesomely beautiful coastline between Carmel and San Simeon. It is widely considered to be one of the most scenic driving routes in the US and was described by Australian painter Francis McComas as the greatest meeting of land and water in the world. Condo Nast Traveler named Highway 1 through Big Sur one of the top ten world-famous streets, comparable to Broadway in New York City and the Champs-Élysées in Paris.

Willow Creek Beach is located approximately 25 miles north of the rookery and is the first public beach on Highway 1 heading towards Carmel. A narrow road branches off from the highway, leading to a small parking lot adjacent to the beach, providing excellent vistas of Cape San Martin.

There are two beach sections; the first one is next to the parking lot is cobble filled but that didn't stop us from exploring.

In order to access the sandy area of the beach, you must cross Willow Creek as it flows over the rocky terrain and reaches the beach near the base of the cliffside wall. This route is blocked during high tide, but if you had timed our arrival better we could have had the beach to ourself.

Standing on the beach, you can see how the Santa Lucia Mountains rise right out of the Pacific Ocean. This range contains some of the most rugged and unrelentingly steep terrain found anywhere in the lower 48 states. There are no foothills, just near vertical cliffs. These sea cliffs can reach heights of up to 400 feet, but typically stand around 200 feet high.

One final glimpse of this stunning beach.

In the distance is the two-lane, double-arched, 589-foot long Big Creek Bridge. It opened to traffic in 1938 and stands 65 feet above the floor of the Big Creek Canyon.

The road leading to the bridge resembles a narrow slice carved out of the mountain slope.

There are so many pull off that it’s difficult to decide which ones to explore and which to drive by; however, this sign at the entrance to Saddle Rock and South Gardens Environmental Campground caused us to pull over..

These cliffs were formed by a combination of factors. Uplift: Recurrent uplift of the Santa Lucia Mountains has exposed previously buried rocks to the elements. Erosion: Relentless erosion of softer, weaker rocks by waves has left behind the harder and erosion resistant rocks that form these near vertical cliffs. Weathering: Eventually, weathering will deteriorate even these resilient rocks, leading to the collapse of the cliffs. Until that time comes, we'll enjoy these views.

In Big Sur the battle between uplift and erosion has been won by uplift. The mountains rose quicker than waves rain, wind and landslides could erode them. However, rock pile remnants of old sea walls and coastal rock falls are proof that erosive power of waves continues to alter the coastline.

One of planned excursions was to hike the overlook trail to McWay Fall in Julia Pfeiffer Burns Sate Park. This easy, out and back trail is about half a mile in total. As everyone mentions on their online reviews, the trail concludes at the viewpoint for the falls since the path leading down to the beach is currently inaccessible due to erosion.

Half way to the overlook, the trail passes through a short tunnel under the highway.

Within a short time of exiting the tunnel, you will be able to see the cove and waterfall. Depending on the source the waterfall has either a 65- or 80-foot drop to the beach. However, during high tide, water spills directly into the ocean—making it a tidefall.

After seeing these photos, you might ask if this brief hike is worth your time. The response is YES. Pictures may not always capture the true essence of a place, and there is a valid reason why it is regarded as a 'iconic' attraction along the coastal road.

Mealt Falls in Skye (Scotland) is the only other tidefall we've encountered in our travels. You can find more information about by clicking on this blog link.

The Partington Cove Trail, our second planned hike in Julia Burns Pfeiffer State Park, is situated merely 2 miles north of the McWay Overlook Trail. The trail is one of the most popular hikes in Big Sur. It offers three different routes so you can customize the length of your hike. During our visit, we chose to explore two of these spurs as highlighted on the map.

The trail starts as a wide dirt road

The hills above the trailhead show signs of a landslide.

The trail starts on the remains on a wide dirt road that descends via a few steep switchbacks.

This picturesque Pride of Madeira evergreen shrub is a great plant for mild coastal climates and grows on rocky slopes in poor, dry soil. Great spiked clusters of bluish-purple flowers stand out above the long, narrow, hairy, grey-green foliage. Native to the islands of Madeira, located between Portugal and Morocco, this fast-growing, herbaceous perennial subshrub naturally grows 4-8 feet high and 4-6 feet wide. In California, it is considered an invasive species. It is removed from native plant communities as part of habitat restoration efforts in coastal parks

I thought I was lucky enough to take a photo of a California condor soaring above Big Sur, but it turned out to be a turkey vulture.

The National Park Service offers this photo to aid in distinguishing between these two species by their underwing markings. The bird on the left is a turkey vulture, while the one on the right is a California condor.

This trail showcases the abundant plant growth along the Big Sur coast including these coastal redwoods.

After descending down steep switchbacks the trail forks in different directions at the base of a wooden bridge. We chose to take the trail on the right and head toward Partington Point and a boulder beach.

Within 20 minutes, we were standing in front of the boulder covered beach. Our timing was impeccable, with clear views unobstructed by fog or clouds, and no other people in sight.

As the sign warns, surf conditions can be rough.

Swimming is a no-go at this beach,

Since the tide was coming in, there was no beach but plenty of rocks to sit on and enjoy the incredible beauty.

After taking in the scenery and enjoying the solitude, we return to the main trail to take the spur leading to Partington Cove that leads to a 100-foot long tunnel.

John Partington, a homesteader in Big Sur, created this tunnel in the 1870s and used Partington Cove to transport tanoak bark and redwoods by ship to Santa Cruz and San Francisco. Tanoak bark was valued for its tannins, which were used to make leather. Coast redwoods were a favored building material because the wood is slower to burn than other woods, rot-resistant, and insect-repellent, making it a good choice for a home. In the 1920s during prohibition the tunnel and cove were allegedly used by bootleggers.

Once you get through the tunnel to the other side, you are up on path along a cliff edge that hugs the point.

The turquoise colored water allow you to see rocks on the bottom and giant sea kelp swaying with the ocean current.

Gazing back at the cove.

The trail ends at a rocky ledge with a lone tree rooted in the stone.

Time to head back to the trailhead and continue our drive.

A Drive to Remember

No better way to wrap up the coastline drive than with a stop at the iconic Bixby Bridge. It’s probably the most photographed object along the coastal highway.

Bixby Creek Bridge was completed in 1932 for just over $200,000 (equivalent to over $3 million today). Reaching 260 feet high and over 700 feet long, it became the highest single-span arch bridge in the world and it still is one of the tallest single-span bridges 90 years later.

Of the seven arch bridges built along the Bur Sur coastline, Bixby Bridge remains the most admired and has become Big Sur's version of the Golden Gate Bridge.

Even though the Big Sur coastal highway extends for another 18 miles, we concluded our adventure at Bixby Bridge and proceeded nonstop to our Airbnb in Watsonville. We still had two more days to explore Carmel and Monterey, and today's drive had already taken nearly 6 hours.

When we began this road trip, we identified several reasons why Big Sur stood out as the ideal destination for an 'epic' California road trip.

✅ Landscapes

✅ Coastal cliffs

✅ Postcard perfect vistas

✅ Geology

Did it meet expectations? Absolutely. It exceeded all our hopes and provided some additional surprises.

✅ Wildlife encounters

✅ Perfect weather

✅ Secluded beaches

The road trip from Moro Bay to Monterey along the Big Sur coast is a unique experience, combining stunning natural landscapes, fascinating geological formations, and numerous chances for both excitement and tranquility.