Beaches and Sea Stacks Along the Oregon Coast

It was the easiest decision, but it was the hardest decision to make! With so many options and opportunities for our first trip to Oregon, choosing to start our journey by exploring the northern coast was straightforward. However, the difficult part was selecting which beach community to stay in for our 4-day visit. As always, Dave resolved the issue by discovering a unique Airbnb in Netarts, a small unincorporated community that was centrally positioned for coastal exploration.

Fort Clatsop Lewis and Clarks National Historical Park

On the drive from Seattle to Netarts, we made an unplanned stop at Fort Clatsop the Lewis and Clarks National Historical Park located outside of Astoria, Oregon.

What is a national historic park? Click here for an article that describes the range of titles in the National Park system: national park, national monument, national preserve, national historic park, national recreation area, national battlefield, and many others.

In 1803, President Thomas Jefferson completed the Louisiana Purchase from France. In return for fifteen million dollars, the US acquired a total of 828,000 square miles nearly doubling the size of the country. Jefferson soon commissioned an expedition to be led by Meriwether Lewis with William Clark. Their goals were to:

• explore and map the newly acquired territory,

• find a practical water route across the western half of the continent, and

• establish an American presence in the Oregon Country territory before European powers attempted to establish claims in the region.

At the time, the grey areas outlined in the map were claimed by Britain, Russia, Spain and the US.

The Lewis and Clark Expedition, often referred to as the Corps of Discovery Expedition, set off on its westward journey in May 1804. By late summer or early fall of 1805, Lewis and Clark had reached the western edge of the Louisiana Purchase and entered the Oregon Country. In November 1805, the expedition first caught sight of the Pacific Ocean. As they faced their second harsh winter, the Corps chose to establish a camp along the Columbia River and started building Fort Clatsop.

The encampment was constructed not only for shelter and protection but also to formally establish an American presence in the area and to raise the American flag over the fort. Although the original fort no longer exists, this 2006 replica is based on details from Clark's journal.

The 33 expedition members endured four rainy months (December to March) waiting for winter to pass before starting their journey back to St. Louis, Missouri.

Lewis and Clark successfully achieved the main goals of their mission by reaching the Pacific Ocean, mapping the region, and asserting their presence to legally claim the land. Furthermore, they formed diplomatic relations and trade agreements with over twenty indigenous nations. However, they failed to discover the mythical water route to the Pacific Ocean that Jefferson had hoped for.

We took the opportunity to walk some of the Park trails. This was our introduction to Oregon forests and the countless shades of green that bombard your eyes.

Netarts

Our Airbnb in Netarts (red marker in the map below) was located in a secluded section along the eastern shore of Netarts Bay. This photo of the house was taken during low tide when we could walk out on the exposed bay.

Netarts Bay stretches about 5 miles in length and 1.5 miles in width. It is shielded from ocean storms by a sand spit on its western side, creating an estuary where freshwater from nearby streams and creeks merges with ocean saltwater. Only 40% of the bay remains submerged at all times, while the other 60% comprises intertidal areas. The tides fluctuate between 5-9 feet, allowing us to see all the way across the bay at low tide. In this photo, you can observe the elevated forested regions of the sand spit in the distance, along with the exposed intertidal zones in between. What a view to wake up to each morning!

While driving back to the Airbnb one stormy afternoon, we captured this photo which shows the narrow sandy spit that separates the ocean from Netarts Bay (top right of center).

It was a short 15 minute walk from the Airbnb to the Jacobsen Salt Company. Established in 2011, Jacobsen Salt Co. is the first company to harvest salt in the Pacific Northwest since the 1800s. Over time, it has grown from a local small business into a nationally recognized brand, becoming America’s leading salt maker. Unfortunately, the shop was closed, but we eventually purchased Jacobsen Pure Flake Sea Salt at the Tillamook Creamery Store.

During our 4-day stay along the coast, we explored a number of beaches, small communities, and hiking trails. Each of the stops are identified in the following map.

A: Cannon Beach

B: Acadia Beach

C: Oceanside Beach - Tunnel Beach

D: Cape Lookout State Park Hike (separate blog)

E: McPhillips Beach

F: God Thumb Hike (separate blog)

Cannon Beach

Cannon Beach ranks among the top tourist spots on the Oregon coast, renowned for Haystack Rock, a 235-foot sea stack that protrudes along the shoreline. In 2013, National Geographic recognized it as "one of the world’s 100 most beautiful places." This accolade attracts numerous visitors eager to see Haystack, making it one of Oregon's most photographed landmarks.

Haystack Rock's history dates back nearly 15 million years when volcanic lava traveled from eastern Oregon following the Columbia River's path. Upon reaching the ocean, the lava sank into the soft seabed, accumulated in certain areas, and emerged to create sea stacks.

Unfortunately, on the day we went to Haystack Rock, the beach was enveloped in fog, which is typical for an Oregon summer beach day. However, we have plenty of time to plan a return trip since geologists estimate the iconic rock will not erode completely for another 3,000 years.

The poor weather made for good selfie conditions.

Arcadia Beach

As the fog cleared, we spotted several secluded beaches along the rocky coastline and were determined to reach one of them. The northern Oregon coast features large, prominent headlands divided by coves with sandy or rocky beaches. A headland is a land point, typically elevated with significant erosion and a steep drop, that extends into a body of water. The headlands are divided by coves made of marine sediments and softer sandstone, which erodes more easily than the basalt headlands. In this photo, four distinct headlands and their coves can be seen.

We did it! Tucked between two headlands, we discovered Arcadia Beach. As we stepped onto the beach, the first thing that caught our attention was the impressive Humbug Point. This headland was submerged underwater but was geologically uplifted relatively recently, around 25 million years ago. The forces from this uplift are particularly visible in the upward tilt and twisted formations of the orange-brown sandstone layer.

What causes the uplift along the Oregon coast, and is it still occurring? The explanation lies around 70-75 miles offshore. The Cascadia Subduction Zone features a 600-mile fault stretching from northern California to British Columbia, where the Juan de Fuca Plate is moving beneath the North American plate. As the oceanic plate descends under the continental plate, it applies upward pressure.

On a local level, the immense pressure caused the sandstone distortions pictured above. On a more grand scale the uplift contributed to the formation of the Oregon Coast Mountain Range located 20 miles inland.

The proximity to a subduction zone is why we frequently encountered signs indicating entry into or exit from a tsunami zone along the coast. The Cascadia Subduction Zone has been accumulating strain for more than 300 years, meaning a major earthquake could occur at any moment. In terms of simple probabilities, there is about a one in ten chance that an earthquake with a magnitude as large as 9.0 will strike the zone within the next 50 years.

We were lucky to visit during low tide when we could reach Lion Rock. This sea stack was once connected to Humbug Point, but over 15 million years of erosion have separated the two rock formations.

While exploring the coast, it's essential to keep an eye on the ocean and be aware of whether the tide is rising or falling. Every year, numerous news stories highlight tourists needing rescue from rapidly incoming tides. Avoid becoming part of this narrative by checking tide schedules before venturing onto the beaches.

Navigating Humbug Point without getting wet is quite challenging. During high tide, the water can reach waist height. In the distance, the ever-present Haystack Rock serves as a constant reminder of the dominant sea stack in the area.

This beach is an ideal escape if you want to avoid the crowds at Cannon Beach.

As we walked along the beach, we were treated to a pair of Bald Eagles soaring overhead. Although they were once on the brink of extinction, Bald Eagles now flourish in great numbers in the Pacific Northwest. These majestic birds of prey are among the largest, with wingspans that can surpass seven feet. Their exceptional eyesight allows them to detect a fish from over a mile away, and they are incredibly swift, capable of diving at 100 miles per hour to catch a fish just beneath the water's surface. Welcome to Oregon!

Oceanside Beach - Tunnel Beach

True to its name, the town of Oceanside is situated on a steep hillside directly along the Pacific Ocean. It features a mix of new, old, and renovated homes, all boasting million-dollar views.

To the north, this inviting stretch of beach is protected from the wind by Maxwell Point, a headland. This basalt headland, rising a few hundred feet above the beach, was created during the Miocene epoch, approximately 5 to 23 million years ago. To the south, there is a three-mile stretch of sandy beach that leads directly to Netarts Bay.

Approximately half a mile offshore lie the enormous basalt sea stacks known as the Three Arch Rocks. These stacks, along with other sea rocks and the nearby headlands, consist of Columbia River basalts. These basalts erupted from volcanic fissures in northeastern Oregon 15 to 17 million years ago and extended all the way to the coast.

In 1907, the Arches were recognized as the first National Wildlife Refuge located west of the Mississippi River. The wilderness area comprises three large rocks and six smaller ones, covering only 15 acres, making it one of the smallest designated Wilderness Areas in the nation. Currently, it safeguards over a quarter million nesting seabirds and serves as a popular spot for marine mammals. These rocks provide a habitat for Oregon's largest breeding colony of tufted puffins and the largest common murre colony south of Alaska. It is also the sole northern Oregon pupping site for the threatened Steller sea lion. To give some perspective, the middle stack, known as Finley Rock, is the tallest of the three, standing over 300 feet high.

What truly sets this beach apart is an opening at the base of Maxwell Point. The Rosenberg family, who founded Oceanside, carved a tunnel through the cliff in 1926. Although landslides blocked the tunnel in 1979, concrete extensions reopened it, and a storm in March 1999 cleared out debris so effectively that the tunnel resembled its appearance in the 1930s.

Move beyond the neatly constructed concrete entrance, and you'll find the tunnel transforms into rugged rocky walls with a floor strewn with boulders. The tunnel stretches for just about 125 feet, allowing light from the exit to be seen almost right away.

The Rosenberg family believed that constructing the tunnel would enable them to develop one of the premier beach resorts along the Pacific coast. This new tunnel provided visitors with convenient access to observe California's sea lions, harbor seals, puffins, common murres, and the rare six-rayed starfish residing on the beach, rocks, and caves beyond Maxwell Point. Beyond the tunnel lies the breathtaking Tunnel Beach, also referred to as Isolation Beach.

Tunnel Beach is a pebble beach stretching approximately 300 yards, bordered by Maxwell Point at one end....

... and Hatbox Rock at the other end. You can travel beyond Hatbox during negative low tides, but be sure to consult the tide schedules if you wish to explore more.

Besides these breathtaking headlands, Tunnel Beach features uniquely shaped sea stacks just off the coast.

Squeaky Oregon Sand

Walking along the beach, we noticed that the sand squeaks when you walk on it. After a lot research I've discovered their is a scientific reason for 'squeaky sand'. The sound is created by friction from sand grains rubbing against each other as we compress the grains with each step we take. However, certain conditions must exist to generate that squeaking sound.

1. The type of sand must be a silicate, a feldspar, or a carbonate;

2. The grains must be rounded (no sharp corners or edges);

3. The grains should be around 300 micrometers in diameter; and

4. The sand should be dry since moisture on the grains acts as a lubricant, decreasing the friction and the sound.

So now you know the science behind the squeaky Oregon beach sand.

Tillamook Creamery

A visit to northern Oregon wouldn't be complete without stopping by Tillamook Creamery. Dave first tried Tillamook ice cream in 2019, and it quickly became one of his favorites. So, we definitely couldn't pass up the chance to enjoy ice cream straight from the creamery.

In 1909, a number of small creameries united to form the Tillamook County Creamery Association, aiming to guarantee that all cheese produced in the Tillamook Valley would meet high quality standards. However, it was not until 1947 that they started experimenting with ice cream production. This experiment proved successful, and Tillamook asserts that their ice cream is creamier than others because it contains more cream and less air. They even claim that a carton of Tillamook Ice Cream weighs half a pound more than the FDA standard.

Additionally, they manufacture and package a large amount of cheese. After witnessing all that cheese, we couldn't help but purchase two takeout containers of their macaroni and cheese for dinner that evening.

McPhillips Beach

We had planned on driving the ‘Three Capes Scenic Drive‘ but the route heading to Cape Meares had been closed for quite some time and since we had already spent time at Cape Lookout we changed plans and drove directly to Cape Kiwanda. The weather didn't look promising as we approached the Cape with low lying clouds hovering over the hills.

In an interesting turn of events for the day, we turned down a small unmarked road before we reached Cape Kiwanda State Park and found ourselves at an amazing looking beach—McPhillips Beach, located at the northern end of the State Park.

As we arrived at the beach, small basalt formations bordered the entrance. These rocks are remnants of the ancient Columbia River lava flows that spread across much of the Oregon coast 17 million years ago. However, Cape Kiwanda and the nearby hills consisted mostly of brown and tan sandstone.

To the south, over a mile away stood the iconic Cape Kiwanda headland, featuring its impressive sand dune and Haystack Rock, which is distinct from the one at Cannon Beach and is situated less than half a mile from the shore.

The sand dunes leading out to the Cape are a popular hangout out for hang gliders. Making their way up the 100 foot high sand dune would be a challenge even without their equipment.

Cape Kiwanda is a bit of an oddity along the Oregon coast in that it's comprised of sandstone unlike the majority of the northern Oregon headlands which are basalt (the black rock that is created by ancient lava flows). The entire area around Kiwanda is considered unusual in that there is relatively little presence of the massive lava flows that covered and smothered much of the area, and created most of the major landmarks we see. Even with overcast skies, the light tan, brown and red streaks of the Cape stands out in contrast with the usual greyish-black basalt cliffs we've been exploring. And there's a weird twist in the relationship between Haystack Rock and the cape that's highlighted later in the blog.

Since our visit coincided with low tide, we were able to safely walk out along the rocks for some close up views inside the dramatic canyon-like opening where waves crash against the odd, jagged rock formations.

Here is a detailed view of one of the arches within what is essentially an oceanic canyon located at the tip of Cape Kiwanda. I wonder how long before these arches lose their battle against the pounding waves and crumble adding even more rubble to the canyon.

Haystack Rock off Cape Kiwanda

Located just 4/10 of a mile off the coast of Cape Kiwanda is Haystack Rock. These two features share an interesting relationship that began millions of years. Eighteen million years ago, the entire western chunk of the U.S. did not exist. The continent's western edge was closer to Idaho, and this area was ocean floor located hundreds of miles from land. Over many millions of years erosion delivered beds of sand to the ocean floor that in time were compressed and cemented together to form sandstone. This layer known as the Astoria Formation runs from central Oregon into Washington. The Astoria Formation is what we see at Cape Kiwanda today.

Fast forward to 15 million years ago, huge lava flows emanating from fissure near present day Idaho and Eastern Oregon seared their way across the region. They’re called “flood basalts” because they completely flooded the entire landscape and created the headlands that we see today. But these flows mostly missed the Kiwanda area. The map below identifies how large an area was impacted by these lava flow.

Many of the basalt floods made it all the way to the Pacific Ocean and were so strong they plunged into the softer sediment of the Astoria Formation. These lava deposits pooled and then re-erupted through thousands of feet of mud on the ocean floor. After cooling and solidifying into solid basalt rock, they remained buried until geologic uplift and changes in sea level left these irregular basalt formations above the surface of the water where erosion created these rock formations. It's believed that Haystack Rock is one of those re-eruptions and Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach might be as well.

During this period, spanning approximately 12 million years, the levels of land and the ocean floor experienced significant rises and falls, including the future headlands at Kiwanda. These movements led to further erosion of the sandstone and basalt formations, gradually shaping them into their current forms.

According to scientists, Cape Kiwanda should have eroded thousands of years ago. However, Haystack Rock has served as a shield, protecting it from the brunt of harsh winter storms. Over time, Haystack has been worn down by relentless battering. This close-up from Pacific City beach reveals the jagged and fractured edge, suggesting that the stack used to be significantly larger.

Despite its 'reduced' size, it continues to provide some protection for the Cape and nearby beaches. We should value Haystack and Cape Kiwanda before either or both of these formations succumb to the sea.

Standing at 327 feet, this Haystack is nearly 100 feet taller than the more renowned Haystack at Cannon Beach. However, because it is located much farther offshore, it often looks smaller in photographs.

Our experience along the northern Oregon coastline was amazing. It was such an interesting area to explore and the trip certainly wetted our appetite to return and explore the central and southern coast. Here‘s a final picture and video to close out this blog.

Also, don't forget to check out the hikes we did along the coast:

1. Cape Lookout Trail

2. God's Thumb