Beaches and Sea Stacks Along the Oregon Coast

Choosing to begin our first trip to Oregon by exploring the northern coast was simple, yet deciding which beach community to stay in for our 4-day visit proved challenging. Although the decision seemed easy at first, the abundance of options and opportunities made it tough. As always, Dave resolved the issue by discovering a unique Airbnb in Netarts, a small unincorporated community that was centrally positioned for coastal exploration.

Fort Clatsop Lewis and Clarks National Historical Park

On the drive from Seattle to Netarts, we made an unplanned stop at Fort Clatsop, part of the Lewis and Clarks National Historical Park located outside of Astoria, Oregon.

What is a national historic park? Click here for an article that describes the range of titles in the National Park system: national park, national monument, national preserve, national historic park, national recreation area, national battlefield, and many others.

In 1803, President Thomas Jefferson finalized the Louisiana Purchase with France. For fifteen million dollars, the United States obtained 828,000 square miles, almost doubling the nation's size. Jefferson soon commissioned an expedition to be led by Meriwether Lewis with William Clark. Their goals were to:

1. Explore and map the newly acquired territory,

2. Find a practical water route across the western half of the continent, and

3. Establish an American presence in the Oregon Country territory before European powers attempted to establish claims in the region.

During that period, the regions shaded in grey on the map were claimed by Britain, Russia, Spain, and the US.

The Lewis and Clark Expedition, commonly known as the Corps of Discovery Expedition, embarked on its westward journey in May 1804. By late summer or early fall of 1805, Lewis and Clark had arrived at the western boundary of the Louisiana Purchase and entered the Oregon Country. In November 1805, the expedition first glimpsed the Pacific Ocean. As they prepared for their second challenging winter, the Corps decided to set up a camp along the Columbia River and constructed Fort Clatsop.

The encampment was built not just for shelter and protection, but also to officially establish an American presence in the region and to hoist the American flag over the fort. While the original fort is no longer standing, this 2006 replica is based on details from Clark's journal.

The 33 members of the expedition spent four rainy months, from December to March, waiting for winter to end before beginning their return trip to St. Louis, Missouri.

Lewis and Clark successfully achieved the main goals of their mission by reaching the Pacific Ocean, mapping the region, and asserting their presence to legally claim the land. Furthermore, they formed diplomatic relations and trade agreements with over twenty indigenous nations. However, they failed to discover the mythical water route to the Pacific Ocean that Jefferson had hoped for.

We took the opportunity to walk some of the Park trails. This was our introduction to Oregon forests and the countless shades of green that bombard our eyes.

Netarts

Our Airbnb in Netarts (indicated by the red marker on the map below) was situated in a remote area along the eastern shore of Netarts Bay. This photo of the house was captured during low tide, allowing us to walk on the exposed bay.

Netarts Bay extends approximately 5 miles in length and 1.5 miles in width. It is protected from ocean storms by a sand spit on its western side, forming an estuary where freshwater from nearby streams and creeks mixes with ocean saltwater. Only 40% of the bay is always submerged, while the remaining 60% consists of intertidal areas. The tides vary between 5-9 feet, allowing us to see across the bay at low tide. In this photo, you can observe the elevated forested areas of the sand spit in the distance, along with the exposed intertidal zones in between. What a view to wake up to each morning!

On a stormy afternoon drive back to the Airbnb, we took this photo that displays the narrow sandy spit dividing the ocean from Netarts Bay (top right of center).

The Airbnb was just a brief 15-minute walk from the Jacobsen Salt Company. Founded in 2011, Jacobsen Salt Co. is the first company to harvest salt in the Pacific Northwest since the 1800s. It has evolved from a small local enterprise into a nationally acclaimed brand, becoming America's foremost salt producer. Although the shop was closed, we later bought Jacobsen Pure Flake Sea Salt at the Tillamook Creamery Store.

During our 4-day stay along the coast, we explored a number of beaches, small communities, and hiking trails. Each of the stops are identified in the following map.

A: Cannon Beach

B: Acadia Beach

C: Oceanside Beach - Tunnel Beach

D: Cape Lookout State Park Hike (separate blog)

E: McPhillips Beach

F: God Thumb Hike (separate blog)

Cannon Beach

Cannon Beach is one of the leading tourist destinations on the Oregon coast, famous for Haystack Rock, a 235-foot sea stack extending along the shore. In 2013, National Geographic named it "one of the world’s 100 most beautiful places." This recognition draws many visitors eager to view Haystack, making it one of Oregon's most photographed sites.

The history of Haystack Rock stretches back almost 15 million years, originating when volcanic lava flowed from eastern Oregon along the Columbia River's route. Once it reached the ocean, the lava settled into the soft seabed, gathered in specific locations, and rose to form sea stacks.

Unfortunately, on the day we went to Haystack Rock, the beach was enveloped in fog, which is typical for an Oregon summer beach day. However, we have plenty of time to plan a return trip since geologists estimate the iconic rock will not erode completely for another 3,000 years.

The poor weather made for good selfie conditions.

Arcadia Beach

When the fog lifted, we noticed several hidden beaches along the rugged coastline and decided to explore one. The northern Oregon coast is characterized by large, prominent headlands separated by coves with either sandy or rocky beaches. A headland is an elevated landform with significant erosion and steep cliffs, extending into a body of water. The headlands are divided by coves composed of marine sediments and softer sandstone, which erodes more readily than the basalt headlands. In this photo, four distinct headlands and their coves are visible.

We made it! Nestled between two headlands, we found Arcadia Beach. As we stepped onto the beach, our eyes were immediately drawn to the striking Humbug Point. This headland, once submerged, was uplifted by movement along the earthquake faults due to seismic activity around 25 million years ago. The impact of this uplift is evident in the upward tilt and twisted shapes of the orange-brown sandstone layer.

What leads to the uplift along the Oregon coast, and is it ongoing? The answer is found approximately 70-75 miles offshore. The Cascadia Subduction Zone contains a 600-mile fault extending from northern California to British Columbia, where the Juan de Fuca Plate is subducting beneath the North American plate. As the oceanic plate moves under the continental plate, it exerts upward pressure.

On a local level, the immense pressure caused the sandstone distortions pictured above. On a more grand scale the uplift contributed to the formation of the Oregon Coast Mountain Range located 20 miles inland.

The proximity to a subduction zone is why we frequently encountered these tsunami hazard zone sign along the coast. The Cascadia Subduction Zone has been accumulating strain for more than 300 years, meaning a major earthquake could occur at any moment. In terms of simple probabilities, there is about a one in ten chance that an earthquake with a magnitude as large as 9.0 will strike the zone within the next 50 years.

We were lucky to visit during low tide when we could reach Lion Rock. This sea stack was once connected to Humbug Point, but 15 million years of erosion have separated the two.

When exploring the coast, it's crucial to monitor the ocean and be mindful of whether the tide is coming in or going out. Each year, numerous news stories highlight tourists who require rescue due to fast-approaching tides. Avoid becoming part of this narrative by checking tide schedules before venturing onto the beaches

Navigating Humbug Point without getting wet is challenging. At high tide, the water can rise to waist level. In the distance, the always visible Haystack Rock stands as a continual reminder of the prominent sea stacks in the region.

This beach is an ideal escape if you want to avoid the crowds at Cannon Beach.

As we walked along the beach, we were treated to a pair of Bald Eagles soaring overhead. Although they were once on the brink of extinction, Bald Eagles now flourish in great numbers in the Pacific Northwest. These majestic birds of prey are among the largest, with wingspans that can surpass seven feet. Their exceptional eyesight allows them to detect a fish from over a mile away, and they are incredibly swift, capable of diving at 100 miles per hour to catch a fish just beneath the water's surface. Welcome to Oregon!

Oceanside Beach - Tunnel Beach

True to its name, the town of Oceanside is situated on a steep hillside directly along the Pacific Ocean. It features a mix of new, old, and renovated homes, all boasting million-dollar views.

To the north, this inviting stretch of beach is protected from the wind the Maxwell Pointheadlands. This basalt formation, which ascends a few hundred feet above the beach, was formed during the Miocene epoch, around 5 to 23 million years ago. To the south, a three-mile expanse of sandy beach extends directly to Netarts Bay.

About half a mile from the shore are the massive basalt sea stacks called the Three Arch Rocks. These stacks, along with additional sea rocks and the adjacent headlands, are made up of Columbia River basalts. These basalts originated from volcanic fissures in northeastern Oregon 15 to 17 million years ago and stretched all the way to the coast.

In 1907, the Arches were acknowledged as the first National Wildlife Refuge situated west of the Mississippi River. This wilderness area consists of three large rocks and six smaller ones, spanning just 15 acres, making it one of the smallest designated Wilderness Areas in the country. Presently, it protects over a quarter million nesting seabirds and is a favored location for marine mammals. These rocks offer a habitat for Oregon's largest breeding colony of tufted puffins and the largest common murre colony south of Alaska. Additionally, it is the only northern Oregon pupping site for the threatened Steller sea lion. For context, the middle stack, called Finley Rock, is the tallest of the three, rising over 300 feet high.

What makes this beach unique is an opening at the base of Maxwell Point. In 1926, the Rosenberg family, founders of Oceanside, carved a tunnel through the cliff. Although landslides blocked the tunnel in 1979, concrete extensions were added to reopen it. A storm in March 1999 removed debris so thoroughly that the tunnel looked much like it did in the 1930s.

Move beyond the neatly constructed concrete entrance, and you'll find the tunnel transforms into rugged rocky walls with a floor strewn with boulders. The tunnel stretches for just about 125 feet, allowing light from the exit to be seen almost right away.

The Rosenberg family envisioned that building the tunnel would allow them to establish a leading beach resort on the Pacific coast. This tunnel offered visitors easy access to view California's sea lions, harbor seals, puffins, common murres, and the uncommon six-rayed starfish inhabiting this part of the beach. Beyond the tunnel entrance is the stunning Tunnel Beach, also known as Isolation Beach.

Tunnel Beach is a pebble beach stretching approximately 300 yards, bordered by Maxwell Point at one end....

... and Hatbox Rock at the other end. You can travel beyond Hatbox during low tides, but be sure to consult the tide schedules before you explore further.

In addition to its stunning headlands, Tunnel Beach is home to distinctively shaped sea stacks located just offshore.

Squeaky Oregon Sand

Walking along the beach, we noticed that the sand squeaks when you walk on it. After a lot research I've discovered their is a scientific reason for 'squeaky sand'. The sound is created by friction from sand grains rubbing against each other as we compress the grains with each step we take. However, certain conditions must exist to generate that squeaking sound.

1. The type of sand must be a silicate, a feldspar, or a carbonate;

2. The grains must be rounded (no sharp corners or edges);

3. The grains should be around 300 micrometers in diameter; and

4. The sand should be dry since moisture on the grains acts as a lubricant, decreasing the friction and the sound.

So now you know the science behind the squeaky Oregon beach sand.

Tillamook Creamery

No trip to northern Oregon is complete without a visit to Tillamook Creamery. Dave first tasted Tillamook ice cream in 2019, and it swiftly became one of his favorites. Therefore, we couldn't resist the opportunity to savor ice cream directly from the creamery.

In 1909, several small creameries came together to establish the Tillamook County Creamery Association, with the goal of ensuring that all cheese made in the Tillamook Valley adhered to high quality standards. It wasn't until 1947 that they began experimenting with ice cream production. This experiment turned out to be successful, and Tillamook claims that their ice cream is creamier than others due to having more cream and less air. They even state that a carton of Tillamook Ice Cream weighs half a pound more than the FDA standard.

Additionally, they produce and package a significant quantity of cheese. After seeing all that cheese, we couldn't resist buying two takeout containers of their macaroni and cheese for dinner that night.

McPhillips Beach

We had planned on driving the ‘Three Capes Scenic Drive‘ but the route heading to Cape Meares had been closed for quite some time and since we had already spent time at Cape Lookout we changed plans and drove directly to Cape Kiwanda. The weather didn't look promising as we approached with low lying clouds hovering over the hills.

In an interesting turn of events for the day, we turned down a small unmarked road before we reached Cape Kiwanda State Park and found ourselves at an amazing looking beach—McPhillips Beach, located at the northern end of Kiwanda State Park.

Small basalt formations bordered the beach’s entrance. These rocks are remnants of the ancient Columbia River lava flows that spread across much of the Oregon coast 17 million years ago.

To the south, over a mile away stood the iconic Cape Kiwanda headland, featuring its impressive sand dune and Haystack Rock, which is distinct from the one at Cannon Beach and is situated less than half a mile from the shore.

The sand dunes extending to the Cape are a favored spot for hang gliders. Climbing the 100-foot-high sand dune is a challenge, even without their gear.

Cape Kiwanda stands out along the Oregon coast because it is made of sandstone, unlike most northern Oregon headlands, which consist of basalt. The region surrounding Kiwanda is also unique due to the minimal presence of the extensive lava flows that blanketed much of the area. Even under overcast skies, the light tan, brown, and red hues of the Cape contrast sharply with the typical greyish-black basalt cliffs we've been exploring. Additionally, there's an intriguing aspect to the relationship between Haystack Rock and the cape, which is discussed further in the blog.

Since our visit coincided with low tide, we could safely walk along the rocks to get a close-up view of the dramatic canyon-like opening, where waves crash against the unusual, jagged rock formations.

Here is a close-up view of one of the arches located at the tip of Cape Kiwanda. I wonder how long before these arches lose their battle against the pounding waves and crumble adding even more rubble to the canyon.

Haystack Rock off Cape Kiwanda

Located just 0.4 mile off the coast of Cape Kiwanda is Haystack Rock. These two features share an interesting relationship that began millions of years. Eighteen million years ago, the entire western chunk of the U.S. did not exist. The continent's western edge was closer to Idaho, and this area was ocean floor located hundreds of miles from land. Over many millions of years erosion delivered beds of sand to the ocean floor that in time were compressed and cemented together to form sandstone. This layer known as the Astoria Formation runs from central Oregon into Washington. The Astoria Formation is what we see at Cape Kiwanda today.

Fast forward to 15 million years ago, huge lava flows emanating from fissure near present day Idaho and Eastern Oregon seared their way across the region. They’re called “flood basalts” because they completely flooded the entire landscape and created the headlands that we see today. But these flows mostly missed the Kiwanda area. The map below identifies how large an area was impacted by these lava flow.

Numerous basalt floods reached the Pacific Ocean, where their weight caused them to sink thousands of feet into the softer sediments of the Astoria Formation. Some of these lava deposits accumulated and then erupted again through the ocean floor's mud. Once cooled and solidified into basalt rock, they stayed buried until geological uplift and changes in sea level exposed these irregular basalt formations above the water's surface. Erosion then shaped the rock formations we observe today. It is thought that Haystack Rock is one of these re-eruptions.

Scientists believe that Cape Kiwanda should have eroded millennia ago. Yet, Haystack Rock has acted as a barrier, safeguarding it from the full force of severe winter storms. Over the years, Haystack has been gradually worn down by constant pounding. This close-up view from Pacific City beach shows the rough and broken edge, indicating that the stack was once much larger.

Even though its size is 'reduced,' it still offers protection to the Cape and nearby beaches. We must appreciate Haystack and Cape Kiwanda before either or both of these formations are claimed by the sea.

At 327 feet tall, this Haystack surpasses the more famous Haystack at Cannon Beach by almost 100 feet. Nonetheless, its position farther offshore makes it appear smaller.

Our adventure along the northern Oregon coastline was incredible. It was a fascinating area to explore, and the trip definitely sparked our desire to visit again. Here's a final picture and video to conclude this blog.